Isle of Arran: Torrylin Cairn and Kilmory Beach

Has it really been a year I thought. I couldn’t quite believe it when I started to get organised for our Isle of Arran anniversary trip, at the last minute as always. It felt like two or three years in my mind since we were there.

I always say time is passing too quickly, so I’m not sure why this felt different. Possibly the yearning inside me to be there again as I needed it so much.

I was so happy when we were sailing again. It was a beautiful sunny day, yay! We’ve had a warm summer here in Scotland recently, and it has even lasted longer than a day! Three weeks of sunshine in tropical Scotland.

Or maybe I should say tropical ‘Scotland in miniature’. Arran was shining so beautifully in the summer sunshine.

The ocean was glistening in the sunlight with the ferry creating a very powerful and mesmerising trail of water.

This year I booked a glamping pod for four nights at the Balmichael Glamping site. I always said I would return as I loved staying here when we first visited in 2020. The pods are more affordable for a longer stay which gave us extra time to explore new walks on the island.

Read about my 2020 visit and staying with Balmichael Glamping

We arrived in Brodick at around 1:30pm and planned to go for a short walk first, then checking in later at around 6pm. It’s more enjoyable to be able to relax and not think too much about time when we’re on holiday.

Kilmory Beach at Lagg was the place I was keen to see again. When we walked the Arran Coastal Way I was in awe of the low tide sandy beach and always said I would like to spend more time here.

Arran viewpoint

Stopping at the viewpoint between Brodick and Lamlash is always a must even though we’ve been here many times over the years. The thriving foliage gets taller each year, framing the panoramic view of the northern Arran mountains.

This year I wondered about the small block of stone with the number 20 and the name Cameron etched on it.

I used to think this was a memorial stone, but after researching online I’ve now found out it’s part of the Arran Arts Heritage Trail. Twenty red Arran sandstones can be found all around the island showing the name of a featured artist and are placed in the landscape that inspired their work.

I love this and now want to visit them all. Arran Arts Heritage Trail: Placemarkers has all the details about the artists and where to find the stones.

Kilmory beach circular walk

The last time we accessed this walk near the Lagg Hotel as we were staying there that year. There’s a path signposted for ‘Torrylin Cairn’ which takes you through the woodlands.

I thought we wouldn’t be able to park in the hotel car park this time though, so we parked at the Kilmory Hall and accessed the woodlands at the back of the building.

Fairy woodlands

It was a short wander through the enchanting fairy woodlands towards the beautiful Arran coastline.

I love how this video clip turned out. My lovely husband looks like he has vanished into a mysterious realm. Wait for me, I want to go too!

Torrylin cairn

We soon reached Torrylin Cairn, the remains of a Neolithic Chambered Tomb. Also known as a Clyde Cairn, you’ll find many of these around the island and South West Scotland.

The stone chamber that was inside the cairn had four compartments, one of which bones from six adults, a child and a baby were found. Over 5,000 years ago the chambered cairn would have looked like below.

The information sign also reads that burying bones was only the final part of a series of rituals. A dead body with flesh on it was connected to the mortal world and thought to be dangerous and polluting. It is thought that bodies were exposed outside the tomb to be stripped of their flesh by wild animals first.

In all the times we’ve visited here I don’t think I’ve ever seen another soul. It’s a very peaceful place.

As I walked across the grass towards the dry stone wall, I stood for a moment and gazed out to the bluest ocean I’ve seen in a while. I could see the island Ailsa Craig and was thinking about how I would love to stand on the top of it one day and look across to Arran.

I couldn’t tell from here if the tide was in or out, so we followed the track down towards the beach.

Kilmory beach

The tide was high.

I sighed a little as I was hoping to see the full sandy beach, and I probably should have checked the tide times. It was still so beautiful on this warm sunny day though and I was very happy to be here.

Maybe we did move into a different realm after all, look at that stunning ocean view!

The photo below is low tide at Kilmory Beach on a duller day in 2017. It was early in the morning as we had just begun the next stretch of the Arran Coastal Way.

Instead of walking back up the same way, we walked left along the beach and followed the signpost for the circular route. It was an uphill walk along a farm track to the main road. I think the next time I’d walk back through the woodlands as it’s more interesting for me. It was good to know about this route as well though.

The road took us back to where we parked at the Kilmory Hall. My watch recorded the distance of the circular walk as 2.8 km/1.7 miles. We were feeling hot and hungry. We never ate on the ferry this year as we brought our own food to help cut down on our costs.

King’s cave picnic area

As we would be passing the King’s Cave car park, we stopped off here and sat at the picnic table to boil water for our dried food.

I tried a freeze-dried Chicken Fajita with Rice meal that I bought in 2017 for the Arran Coastal Way. It was still in date until 2024, but it wasn’t very tasty to me. It helped boost my energy levels though.

Two guys sat at the picnic table beside us and they were walking the Arran Coastal Way carrying all their gear in the heat! Gosh I felt for them. I know how difficult it is even carrying a lighter weight in cooler weather. The terrain is very challenging in places.

They both went their separate ways though, one taking the amazing coastal route via the King’s Cave and the other the road to Blackwaterfoot. The guy walking the road chatted for a short while saying he was sore and needed a pint, lol. I hope they both did okay, hats off to them!

At the picnic area there was an information sign about the hill in front of us called Ard Bhienn, Arran’s Explosive Volcano. I think this is a fairly new sign as I don’t remember it the last time I was here.

It says the hill was a site of volcanic activity 60 million years ago. The mountains, history and geology around the island always amazes me.

Balmichael Glamping

We arrived at Balmichael Glamping, and I was excited to be there again and get settled for the evening.

Tom and Emma have certainly been busy since we were last there! Two safari tents are now also available to hire. There’s an Honesty Shop called the Nook where you can buy Arran produce and lots more.

There’s a brilliant new games room area that was previously an old Mill. It has been so beautifully converted with lots of space to play or chill. I wish we could have stayed a bit longer and played table tennis and pool. I haven’t played either in many years!

The site now has more cute Alpacas, a handsome Llama called Sir Lancelot, more friendly chickens, the cutest ducks and Valais Blacknose sheep.

Check out the Balmichael Glamping website to find out more, it’s fab!

I watched a beautiful sunset from the comfort of our glamping pod. I spent too much time trying to take photos with my phone though, rather than enjoying the moment lol. I really should switch off properly.

I could hear the wind blowing its haunting tune through the trees who were dancing around after sunset. I really love this sound, but we didn’t quite capture it, so the video clip is silent.

The next morning we cooked our own breakfast and planned a walk in the Clauchland Hills and Dun Fionn.

My next story will be about this walk with more Scottish sunshine, stunning views and boots that were not made for walking…

If you are thinking of visiting the Isle of Arran, have a look at my other Isle of Arran stories for more inspiration.

Thanks for reading.

Love, Dawn-Marie x